1998 Nissan Sentra Charging Issues

"Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car" (pilot-and-car-guy) 01/18/2016 at 17:26 • Filed to: None

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So my car won’t charge. When running, I get the same or slightly lower voltage than when it was off. This is the 3rd alternator. I replaced one about 4 months ago, and when it stopped charging I replaced it again. Still nothing. The alternator tests fine on the bench (Autozone tester) but not in the car. Both the 75A fusible link and the 7.5A Alt fuse are fine, as checked by a multi meter. I’ve run continuity tests to/from the alternator/battery. It all checks out fine. When I hook up a test light I have ground on the alternator case, and the small ground connector. I also have power at the charging post.

It has an internal voltage regulator. I first assumed I had a problem with the voltage regulator input. To check this, I cut off the input wire from the connector. I then ran a wire from the connector to the battery positive. That way I was sure the voltage regulator had input. I have continuity from that connector to battery positive and still no charging.

I’m out of ideas. Help me.

(Sexy alfa for your time)

Manwich - now Keto-Friendly > Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car 01/18/2016 at 17:43

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“So my car won’t charge.”

Of course you’re going to have problems charging it... you need a Nissan Leaf for that, not a Sentra!!

LOL

On a more serious note... you may have a bad battery.

Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car > Manwich - now Keto-Friendly 01/18/2016 at 17:46

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Forgot to mention that. Checks out fine, tried new battery as well.

Manwich - now Keto-Friendly > Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car 01/18/2016 at 17:50

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Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car > Manwich - now Keto-Friendly 01/18/2016 at 17:52

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Thanks, but already check that too. I’ve been dealing with this for months now.

Manwich - now Keto-Friendly > Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car 01/18/2016 at 18:03

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If you have a similar connector on your battery, you might want to look at replacing the same part.

BloodlessWeevil > Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car 01/18/2016 at 18:06

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Sounds like you have the electric side of things covered. Have you considered the mechanical side? The alternator is driven by the accessory belt right? Maybe there is a problem with the belt or pulleys.

Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car > BloodlessWeevil 01/18/2016 at 18:20

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Everything looks fine. New belt has less than 500 miles on it.

Manwich - now Keto-Friendly > Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car 01/18/2016 at 18:26

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In this forum,

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/b14-199…

Someone found an issue where “the positive wire running to the fuse block beside the battery was severely corroded at the wire harness.”

Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car > Manwich - now Keto-Friendly 01/18/2016 at 18:54

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Nice find. Just checked, mines good though. :(

Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car > Manwich - now Keto-Friendly 01/18/2016 at 18:56

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Sadly not. I just have the “normal” cables.

Dingers Ghost, Champion Jockey > Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car 01/18/2016 at 18:58

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You checked for continuity, but what about high resistance across the cables? You can test for voltage drop using your multi meter, across pretty much any cable. All you have to do is create some sort of load in the circuit (which you would have with the engine running, especially with accessories on) and place one lead at one end of the cable/component being tested and the other lead at the other end. Across a cable/wire anything over .4 volt of difference is a sign of high resistance across that component. You can also use this to test across batt. terminals to find a faulty terminal.

I say this because it sounds like everything is intact but the voltage is not getting to the desired destination. Testing for continuity merely shows you an INTACT circuit/component, not how much resistance is in said component.

Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car > Dingers Ghost, Champion Jockey 01/18/2016 at 19:12

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Went out and checked everything. Nothing over 0.3V.

This is odd.

Jonee > Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car 01/18/2016 at 19:24

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Good tension? No slipping?

Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car > Jonee 01/18/2016 at 19:27

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Tension in spec, no slipping, no noise, all other accessories work fine.

Dingers Ghost, Champion Jockey > Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car 01/18/2016 at 19:28

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Wow. With everything you said you’ve tried, I went straight to resistance in the circuit. It really does sound like you’ve tested everything.

Are there any other components that could be over-running, or running when not necessary?

Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car > Dingers Ghost, Champion Jockey 01/18/2016 at 19:39

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Not that I can think of. This car has been nothing but trouble. And this I just can’t figure out.

gergey - Wishes vette was Datsun > Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car 01/19/2016 at 01:25

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I had a pretty similar problem with my ‘90 Celica, and my solution was to drive around with a 50 foot extension cord, a battery charger, and a spare battery. I did that for 8 months and then a lovely dealer gave me $1500 in trade in value (without looking at it at all) when I went and bought my 350Z.

Joke’s on him though, I saw it up for sale a couple days later for $500 “As Is”

Jake Huitt - Two Alfas And A Nissan, Not A Single Running Car > gergey - Wishes vette was Datsun 01/19/2016 at 09:08

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Not so practical. It’s already for sale, but no takers.